I got back to Cape Town around mid-august, thinking I had completely missed the whole season. There hadn’t really been amazing swells, but I also knew there probably wouldn’t be swells coming that late in the winter. Without even checking the forecast, I get home and literally four days later there’s this crazy swell on the charts.
The swell came late. It was supposed to be pumping when we woke up, but we ended up waiting all day for it to arrive. Right at the end of the day, in the last hour or so, we saw sets starting to come through. Small, but super offshore.
We all went out on the jet skis; there were about five skis ready to tow but it was still slow, with about one wave every half hour, so everyone went pretty quickly. I got home and headed to town to have dinner with some friends, and as I got to town I get a call to say, “the buoy readings have just gone up. Tomorrow is probably going to be really good, and huge.”
I woke up to the sound of thunder. My home is really close to the ocean, and if I wake up on a really big day I know exactly what to expect. The longer the sound lingers, the better you know it is. We got up super early and headed straight to Dungeons. We were on the sentinel with the jetski by first light, and we watched Matt Bromley paddle into a huge perfect wave, all the way from the back peak. Seeing that, we all got super psyched.