Surfers Journal, Issue 30.2

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On the cover: Mid-morning light. A locked inside edge. Body English born of pure reaction. Some frames just embody the whole big thing. Sam Hawk, Off The Wall, 1975.

Page one is backed by a full tracking of the cover subject's transformation from Huntington surf rat to Pipeline groundbreaker in the 1970s.
Spot studies also abound, including the history of big-wave surfing at South Africa's Sunset Reef and the risk versus reward of surf tripping to a Mexican prison island.

Find high-art lessons in an excerpt from celebrated author Paul Theroux's new surf-centric novel and a page-by-page look at photographer Slim Aarons' ocean-peripheral work.

As to contemporary happenings, a visual roundup from a dozen of the game's best photographers hits on global action points.