Yes… but I think that’s also why I gravitate towards filming heavy waves, because I know I can’t surf them. I know I’m not good enough. So if I’m filming average waves or waves that I want to be surfing, I generally surf them to be honest.
With the heavier waves you can showcase something and be involved in those sessions. Even though you know you’ve got no chance of ever surfing those waves, you feel connected to the surfers and to those locations by filming them and by kind of understanding the tides and the winds and the situations that they’re working in. Like Mullaghmore for example, I’ve got no hope of ever surfing it, and I don’t want to! But I love going there and seeing it and filming it and being connected to waves like that.
Perfect Thurso is the worst, because I just want to go and surf it. Thurso’s a pretty special place to me really, I’ve been going there for so long now. I try and go a few times a year on a swell. All the locals are so friendly and it’s just got such a nice vibe up there that I get really excited to go when winter’s coming.
And it’s a right hander. Most of the good waves on our coast are left handers, so to go there and surf a right is brilliant. It’s just such a fun wave – this incredible, beautiful, perfect right hander.