The Litus: Evolving The Fisherman's Oilskin

The development of the modern oilskin is credited to New Zealander, Edward Le Roy, in 1898. A sailor by trade, his profession necessitated the use of heavy-duty rainwear that would keep him protected in stormy seas. In search of a solution, Le Roy used cloth from some worn-out sails and painted it with a mixture of linseed oil and wax. Cut to a long length design, the resulting garment was completely waterproof and became an instant favourite amongst fishermen and sailors to keep them dry on deck in the most inhospitable weather conditions. This was often paired with a “Sou’wester”, a traditional form of collapsible oilskin hat that was longer in the back than the front to fully protect the neck, and sometimes had a gutter brim at the front to allow vision in heavy rain.

This attire became common wear among sailors across the globe, and this striking visual image became synonymous with those brave souls – particularly among British coastal communities. A stoic-looking seafarer, clad in his long, slick oilskin and boots, a Sou’wester secured upon his head to protect against the elements. A pipe occasionally protruding from an impressive beard...

Constantly inspired by the history of our Cornish coastline, and its resilient seafaring communities, this image was one that sat on the moodboard for our team as they designed our new Litus Jacket – a classic style rethought and updated for the modern age.

This latest version of the Litus is an upgrade on the jacket that entered our range in 2019, which was itself inspired by our early Stroma Jacket. That style was well known to be a favourite of our Founder, Tom Kay, who could often be seen walking the cliffs with his dog, wearing his old yellow jacket. He loved it for the longer length it provided and its excellent waterproof protection, as well as its simplicity as a layer you could throw over whatever else you were wearing to quickly get out the door.

The new and upgraded Litus retains all these features, with subtle references to the origins of this iconic style. The fabric is an innovative blend of 73% organic cotton combined with 27% recycled polyamide – harking back to the original canvas materials with which traditional oilskins were made, and in contrast to today’s modern versions made with PVC and heavily treated plastic fabrics.

Our new 2025 Litus features a reliable 15,000mm Hydrostatic Head rating (giving protection in steady rain and sudden downpours), fully taped seams and a TPU lining, with the outer fabric coated in a PFC Free water-repellent to ensure full waterproof protection. The large external dump pockets and cotton cord adjusters with silicone toggles are another subtle nod to the Jacket’s heritage, whilst the 2-way zip adds a modern touch of functionality, allowing you to open the jacket from the bottom when sitting or for easy ventilation.

A pure outer shell, the Litus is a study in simplicity. As our Menswear Designer, Edward Lenting, put it, “It’s a great challenge to strip something down to the basics of what makes it work, and still make it functional and beautiful.”

The latest version of our Litus jacket is just that, offering a clean modern aesthetic with subtle nods to the 120 year history of this iconic style and its place in seafaring tradition.